Brazil often brings to mind colorful carnival scenes, Christ the Redeemer towering above Rio, and sun-seekers on Copacabana Beach. Yet, the city of Belém in the country’s northwest rarely enters that conversation.
Less frequented and more niche, Belém typically serves as a stopover for river cruises bound for the Amazon or a waypoint for backpackers navigating Brazil’s far corners. Positioned where the Pará River meets the Amazon, the city is a key entryway into the rainforest—hence its title as the “gateway to the Amazon.”
This strategic location led to its selection as the host city for COP30, offering a “unique platform for global discussions on climate solutions.” By November, international leaders, including British royals, are expected to gather in Belém. In preparation, large-scale projects are already underway, such as the creation of a new park equivalent in size to 70 football fields.
Journalist Danni Scott visited Belém during the fall to attend a free performance by Brazilian DJ and producer Alok, marking the launch of the COP30 countdown and uncovering the rich offerings of this often-overlooked city.
Belém presents a stark contrast from one district to the next. From the developing outskirts near the airport—where a new COP30 arena is under construction—to the bustling urban center with accommodations like the Radisson Hotel Maiorana, the city reveals multiple layers.
Its urban feel quickly fades once visitors board a riverboat and drift into the Amazon delta. Numerous guided tours explore the forest, ranging from brief river cruises to full-day adventures deep into the jungle.
The rainforest seems still at first, but soon the faint rustles and calls of wildlife fill the air, a reminder of how unique this place truly is. Bug spray is essential; mosquitoes are persistent, and the forest offers no barriers from the elements.
One standout experience includes visiting Combu Island, home to a small cocoa farm owned by Dona Nena. Born on the island, this self-taught entrepreneur has been handcrafting chocolate for generations. For around £10, she guides guests through her land, sharing stories of learning to peel cocoa by hand before switching to machinery in 2018. Her artisanal chocolates, especially the Brigadeiro truffles, leave a lasting impression.
On a return visit, Indigenous leaders Célia Xakriabá and Mapu Huni Kuin performed a welcoming ceremony at the base of a 200-year-old kapok tree—sacred to many Amazonian tribes for its towering height and spiritual significance. Participants placed their hands on the roots and were invited to make a wish, believed to come true for those pure of heart.
Later, dinner was enjoyed on tranquil Combu Island while gazing across the river toward the glowing lights of Belém. A sudden tropical downpour offered a powerful reminder of the rainforest’s unpredictable nature—followed, just minutes later, by brilliant sun and starry skies unmarred by light pollution.
Belém’s culinary scene offers more than just chocolate. The regional herb jambu, known for its numbing effect, is a staple in many local dishes. It resembles spinach and features a yellow bloom, and its tingling sensation surprises first-time eaters.
Pará’s location in the Amazon delta makes fresh seafood abundant. Tropical fruits like tucumã, reminiscent of mango, and taperebá, similar to passionfruit, are also highlights.
Yet, açaí stands out as the region’s pride. Around 90% of Brazil’s açaí comes from Pará, though locals consume it differently than the sweet bowls found abroad. Here, it’s served unsweetened with cassava flour or tapioca, offering an earthy, tea-like flavor—especially appealing to those without a sweet tooth.
Still, this prized export faces environmental threats. A local guide explained that açaí production may decline if deforestation continues, putting the region’s economy and biodiversity at risk.
Dining in Belém is affordable. An upscale meal rarely exceeds £30 per person, and even gourmet establishments like Casa do Saulo Onze Janelas serve generous plates—such as tambaqui de banda, a plantain-roasted freshwater fish—at modest prices, with shared plates for two costing about £20.
While the Amazon is a major draw, Belém offers much more. For just R$2 (under 50p), Mangal das Garças park welcomes visitors with hundreds of bird species, including parrots and flamingos, and panoramic views of the city. Locals often retreat here for quiet breaks in nature.
From the park’s viewing platform, one can observe the sharp divide between the developing skyline and the protected green spaces the city works to preserve.
The vast Ver o Peso market adds a different kind of vibrancy, bustling with fruit stalls, handmade crafts, souvenirs, and even perfumes said to inspire love. Visitors can haggle for treasures—from decorative Amazonian vases to fridge magnets shaped like tiny açaí baskets.
With the spotlight of COP30 approaching, Belém is emerging as a destination of global relevance. It holds immense potential as a city that blends sustainability with cultural depth.
Though places like São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro draw most international visitors, Belém offers a more immersive and rewarding journey.
Reaching Belém from London involves a long haul—about 16 hours via Lisbon. Roundtrip LATAM flights in economy class range from £800 to £1,200.
The time zone difference is three hours in winter, four in summer. At current exchange rates, 1 Brazilian Real equals approximately £0.13. Using credit or debit cards is recommended over carrying large amounts of cash.
A superior two-bed suite at the Radisson Hotel Maiorana Belém starts at £135 per night with breakfast included. For guided excursions, local expert Vitor Lima offers insightful tours.
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